Age and natural wonder

Apr 8 2009 by Tom Cadwallender, The Journal

THE wild and windswept shores of the north Northumberland coast between Amble and Berwick is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).

This is a national designation recognising this spectacular stretch of coast as one of the finest landscapes in the country.

The 64km of coastline contains glorious sweeping sandy beaches, such as Bamburgh, Alnmouth, Embleton Bay and Beadnell Bay, all of which are as good for a lazy summer beach visit as they are for a bracing winter walk.

To the north, a contrasting landscape of dramatic cliffs south of Berwick gives way to the sandy beaches of Cocklawburn and Cheswick before leading on to the extensive mudflats and saltmarshes of Lindisfarne and Budle Bay. The flat, open coastal plain permits dramatic views inland to the Cheviot Hills.

High whinstone crags provide an enduring foundation for the castles of Lindisfarne and Bamburgh and the Whin Sill extends offshore, breaching the sea to form the Farne Islands. From Bamburgh to Seahouses the broad sandy beach is backed by extensive sand dunes forming fragile yet impressive coastal features rich in dune flowers and providing a natural sea defence to the land beyond.

The reefs and low cliffs between Seahouses and Beadnell lead to a succession of long sweeping bays punctuated by rocky headlands and overlooked from the south by the dramatic remains of Dunstanburgh Castle.

From Dunstanburgh to Seaton Point, rocky reefs protect a coastline interrupted by small picturesque coves. At its southern end the coast opens out once more as the wide sandy beach backed by dunes sweeps from Alnmouth to the Coquet Estuary.

The AONB area is steeped in 7,000 years of human history of which the incredible collection of castles are the most dramatic sign. These include Warkworth with its fine 14th Century keep, the romantic ruins of Dunstanburgh, stately presence of Bamburgh and precarious perch of Lindisfarne Castle. These testify to, at times, a tumultuous past. In contrast, the tranquillity and relative isolation of the area were qualities favoured by early Christians, and this is still apparent at locations such as Holy Island, St Cuthberts Island and the Inner Farne.

Prominent castles, fortifications and religious buildings provide the best-known historic images. But the heritage interest is much broader including Bronze and Iron Age settlements, early Christian history, picturesque fishing villages and 20th century military defences. Coastal heroines such as Grace Darling have also left their mark in local folk history.

Along the coast there is a string of picturesque villages and harbours to tempt you with Craster Kippers or Lindisfarne Mead. Rolling back through time, perched on the sea cliffs at Howick sits a reconstruction of a Mesolithic hut (on the site of the original), giving a glimpse of the earliest phases of human settlement in the country.

This is truly a rich and varied heritage.

The coast is also home to wildlife of international importance. The interaction of sea and land has created a rich mix of habitats throughout the area, which supports a wide range of wildlife including grey seals, dune flowers, over-wintering birds and summer seabird colonies.

Islands are also important features of this coastline. Historic Holy Island is only accessible across the sands when the tide falls. The Farne Islands, reached by boat from trips out of Seahouses, provide one of the wildlife spectacles of the world in the summer when they are packed full of noisy nesting colonies of seabirds, including the charismatic puffin.

Grey seals can also be seen resting on the islands, and in the autumn their pups are born here too.

As well as all these places to visit, there are lots of opportunities for walking, including the Northumberland Coast Path, cycling (on the Coast and Castles national cycle route), horse riding, fishing and water sports, or simply sitting and drinking in the view.

Tom Cadwallender is natural and cultural heritage officer with the Northumberland Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty

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