FRANCE was not spared the cool wet weather that made much of July such a misery here, but it hasn’t prevented the earliest grape harvest in living memory. It began officially in Champagne on August 20, only equalled in 1822. Pierre Larmandier, my favourite Champagne producer, who pays enormous attention-to- detail and will only harvest when he feels conditions are right, emailed me to say they hoped to begin on August 27.Read