Sweet luxury is a noble brew

Nov 27 2009 by Katharine Everitt, The Journal

Wine extra

I’M not keen on the packaging of the Canaletto ‘Authentic Italian’ range, but their Primitivo 2007 (£5.99 at Waitrose) is a super wine that really does justify the ‘authentic’ tag – a deep ruby, rich and chewy, with bags of ripe raisiny, figgy, plummy fruit.

There’ll be a lot of bargain fizz around this Christmas. Cava prices will tumble, but some are worth paying more for, especially Freixenet’s excellent Cordon Negro. Rich and fruity, it smells and tastes of candied lemon and lime. At £7.49 it’s great value, and some shops will undoubtedly knock a pound or two off over the next few weeks.

Top-end Cava fully justifies a price equal or above that of some of the champagne offers. I love Freixenet’s Pinot Noir Elyssia Brut Rosé. It has bags of ripe cherry and raspberry fruit and would be a great partner for game. It’s available from Soho Wine (Tel: (020) 7636 849 – they deliver nationwide). The usual price is £19.99, but they’re offering £5 off during December.

Wine of the week

Château Haut-Rauly, Monbazillac 2005 Richard Granger, £15.12, or £9.49 half bottle. Deliciously rich, sweet wine with honeyed apricot fruit in abundance, balanced by fresh fruit acidity. Try it with blue cheese – Stilton or Roquefort.