The passion of Argentina

Sep 25 2009 by Helen Savage, The Journal

Future plans include the launch of “Altura Maxima” – wines from the world’s highest vineyards, planned for 2012 and the first release of a Pinot Noir.

This notoriously fickle grape poses a considerable challenge. “It doesn’t enjoy too much sun,” says Thibault, “so we have had to try to create more shade by the way the vines are trained. It will be more Russian River (California) than Burgundy; but if we can develop our own style, that will be good.”

Pinot Noir features strongly in the 135-hectare vineyards planted by the Schroeder family on the Patagonian Plain in a region famed for its apple and cherry orchards.

Owner Luis Schroeder believes that his winery is not only part of the southernmost wine region in the world, but the first to be opened up in the 21st Century. The altitude is low: only about 200 metres above sea level, but the sunshine is strong, humidity very low (like almost all of Argentina’s vineyards irrigation is essential) and the strong winds keep the vines largely disease free, conditions, which Luis argues, enables them to be “nearly organic”. The first wines were released in 2003.

The discovery of a six-metre-long dinosaur fossil, “a huge long-necked job”, provided the inspiration for the “Saurus” range of wines, two of which are sold rather more prosaically under the “Alpataco” label by Waitrose.

There is a fine, fruity Chardonnay (£7.99), with melony fruit and just a touch of spicy oak and a firm, red fruit scented Pinot Noir (£9.49). I hope their sparkling wines will become more widely available soon too: a brilliant Pinot Noir Rosé and a sweet Torrontés that is fruitier and more intensely grapey than almost any sparkling Muscat – including Asti. And their highly unusual, sweet, late harvest Pinot Noir would be a big hit with cheese.

Wine of the week

Colomé Amalaya 2007 £8.99 (or £6.99 if you buy two) Majestic

PERFUMED Argentine red, a Malbec- dominated blend of real style: rich, spicy, plummy, with a hint of mint. Great with steak.

Wine Extras

One of the more enterprising wine projects in Argentina is Clos de la Siete.

The best grapes from seven bodegas, supported by French investors from Bordeaux, have been crafted into a cracking red by leading French wine consultant Michel Rolland. The 2007 is a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon and is deep and rich and chocolatey, with a backing of sweetly perfumed oak. It’s £12.99 or £11.99 in Majestic if you buy two bottles and cheaper still at Waitrose.

Another exceptionally fine Argentine wine is from Mendel Wines, a small estate of just 30 hectares. Malbec 2007 (£14.95 from the Wine Society) is ripe, complex, spicy and perfumed, with beautifully integrated oak flavours.