Changeable climate proving a headache for winemakers

Feb 13 2009 by Helen Savage, The Journal

The best-selling lines in the UK (Jacob’s Creek’s biggest market by far) are Chardonnay, Sparkling Rosé and Shiraz/Cabernet – one of the wines of which Philip is most proud. The other is Jacob Creek’s Riesling. He believes that it’s a great example of successfully meeting the challenge of making quality wine in quantity.

It also reinforces his argument that to make great wine you’ve got to have great fruit. “For the Riesling we’ve been very lucky,” he explained. “We’ve inherited some very good vineyards.” These are the legacy of the company’s founder, German immigrant Johann Gramp, who settled in the Barossa Valley in 1847.

The new wines, available in lots of stores, are a trendy Pinot Grigio marked with a smell of fresh, melony fruit and crisp apple taste; Sauvignon Blanc 2008 that’s light, grassy and refreshing; a Sparking Blanc de Blancs that’s ripely fruity with lemony acidity and a nicely yeasty aroma; and a Tempranillo 2008 that’s deep and plummy, but with a bit of bite.

“We made it because we need to offer more variety to our existing customers and we want to say to someone who has always drunk Spanish wine, ‘Here’s an Australian Tempranillo, why not try that?’”

As much as Philip enjoys time off “sitting on a boat on a river, fishing or reading a book”, he has no plans to retire just yet. “I still seem to be at work for 10 hours a day,” he admitted cheerfully, “But if ever I think that I can’t do better next year, then it’ll be time to hang up my secateurs.”

:: IF you’re on the lookout for a romantic wine that won’t cost the earth and don’t fancy fizz, I warmly recommend Cosa Dolce 2007 (£6.19 at Tesco).

It’s an unusual but deliciously sweet Aussie red from de Bertoli – a blend of Syrah (Shiraz) and the Italian grape Dolcetto. Purple-hued with a bright pink edge, it has a sappy, plummy smell with a hint of nettles and a sweet, grapey taste. Great stuff – and only 9.5% alcohol.

For a more serious side of de Bertoli, try their Windy Peak Pinot Noir 2008 (£7.99 at Sainsbury’s). A cherry red it has lots of sweetly ripe, spicy fruit and quite firm tannins – a good one for roast lamb.