Organic joins the mainstream

Feb 22 2008 by Helen Savage for the Journal

Research carried out for the drinks trade magazine, Off Licence News, shows that sales of organic and biodynamic wine is a huge growth area for independent wine retailers.

But some wine merchants remain to be convinced that it’s time to jump aboard the organic bandwagon. They say there’s still too little demand for organic wine; others believe it is overpriced and a few think that its quality leaves something to be desired.

If these doubters had taken time to visit France’s premier organic wine fair (Millesime Bio), held a few weeks ago in Perpignan, they would have been faced with ample evidence to make them change their minds about the quality of organic and its value for money. On both counts I was surprised how much progress has been made in the space of just a year.

Organic viticulture is no longer the passion of a bearded sandal-wearing fringe. It’s mainstream and big business. More and more grape growers are converting to organic, and quite a few of those who are already organic are experimenting with some of the practices of biodynamics.

This is because they feel that a conventional organic regime that allows the use of potentially toxic chemical sprays, such as copper sulphate, is neither sufficiently rigorous nor sustainable.

Biodynamics uses only homeo- pathic and herbal sprays and also directs a great deal of attention to the cycle of the moon and stars as a guide to when certain tasks should be done.

One such grower is Jean-François Deu who has adopted a number of biodynamic treatments at his Domaine du Traginer, on scattered, stony, terraces where the Pyrenees tumble into the Mediterranean Sea.

Jean-François would have me believe that he is "a little bit crazy", but he is actually a careful, thinking, clever winemaker.

His adoption of strict organic methods has meant that his vines suffer far less from pests than they did five years ago, but he worries about atmospheric pollution from Barcelona, less than an hour away across the Spanish border, and is quick to point out that rainfall has dwindled in this part of France over the last decade.

Water has become a precious and finite resource. As far as biodynamics go he says: "I only take what I like."

The biodynamic treatments he buys in are cheap, but time-consuming. Even more expensive is his decision to carry on working his land with the help of Nanou, a 17-year-old mule. "If I used conventional herbicides it would cost me €500 per hectare each year to look after my vines; with Nanou it costs €4,000, and even though we get 30% to 40% less production than we used to, the quality of the wine makes it worthwhile." And his wines, sold as Banyuls and Collioure, really are superb.

Philippe and Severine Bourrier bought Château de l’Ou on flatter land just to the north of the Pyrenees in 1998 and became only the second estate in their region to adopt an organic regime. They are less persuaded by the benefits of biodynamic preparations, but agree with Jean-François Deu that the water shortage is now a huge concern.

"In 2006," Philippe says, "it only rained twice between April and the end of harvest.

"It would cost €1,500 per hectare to install irrigation pipes – we’re negotiating with the authorities for permission to have the right to irrigate. If you don’t have water you don’t have any grapes."

Water shortages have meant a 30% reduction of yield since 2005, but the quality of the wines Severine crafts from these increasingly stressed vines is extremely good.

Catherine Wallace is convinced that one of the reasons why biodynamic growers make good wine is their unshakeable belief that they’ll do so. "Eighty per cent of biodynamics is belief."

Catherine must have been an unusual child. She says: "Since I was eight I wanted to have a vineyard."

Two years ago she began to live her dream. Her attitude to biodynamic viticulture is highly pragmatic. "If I believe it I’ll do it, but I need evidence. I’ve used some of the herbal spays and they work. I have no disease problems in the vineyard." Catherine’s Château de Combebelle is at St Chinian in the heart of the Languedoc.

Her rich red wines are a vivid testament to the success of doing things organically, even bio- dynamically. For example, her chunky red St Chinian 2005 is packed with the most delicious ripe, smoky black fruit, perfumed with violets.

It’s one of the best wines I’ve tasted in the last year or two from anywhere in southern France and it costs just £6.99. It’s stocked by Booth’s Supermarkets (you’ll need to have a day out in the Lakes or North Yorkshire to find a store, or else go online and order a bottle from www.booths-wine .co.uk.) Keep a look out for the 2006 – it’s even better!