Brasserie Black Door, The Biscuit Factory, Newcastle

Nov 27 2009 by Geoff Laws, The Journal

My companion has a passion for parfait. In her book, it is the supreme ice cream and, when she saw there was a sticky toffee parfait option, the choosing was over. She was rewarded with a perfectly produced parfait, enhanced by the warming experience of sticky toffee pudding without any of those scary pudding calories, just creamy rich ice cream instead!

A trickle of salt butter caramel added intense sweetness, with a clever background salt edge that stopped it tipping over into cloying. An intelligently-designed dish.

My pain perdu with English plums was a winter classic. A deep slice of soft, brioche-style bread came with mulled wine-spiced plums, a vanilla sorbet and fruit syrup run though with traces of coriander. The mix of fluffy base with well-rounded spices and juicy fruit contrasted well with the sorbet and kept my attention from start to finish.

One of the differences between Andrew Wilkinson’s and Norman Cornish’s art, besides price, is that you can keep Norman’s on the wall. Andrew’s masterpieces are now a lingering memory, but such an affordable memory that I can revisit it at any time.

Information

Address: Brasserie Black Door, The Biscuit Factory, 16 Stoddart Street, Newcastle, NE2 1AN.

Tel: (0191) 260 5411

Open: Mon-Sat 12 noon- 2pm, Sun 12 noon-3pm, Mon-Sat 7pm-9.30pm.

Where is it? Part of the Biscuit Factory art gallery building. Own entrance.

First impressions: Modern and spacious.

Welcome: Friendly welcome, loved the enveloping leather sofa.

Style, design and furnishings: Art meets haute cuisine. Framed prints, sculptures and warming faux coal fires keep us stimulated and comforted in equal measure. Exposed brick pillars and good lighting.

Cuisine: Modern British with fresh local produce.

Wine: Panul 2008 Chilean Merlot. Very well chosen house wine. Not too bolshy, served well to make the most of its dry fruit qualities. £14.95.

Service: Well-timed and attentive with light touch.

Value: Three courses for £18.95, outstanding value.

Parking: Car park at front.

Disabled facilities: Fully accessible.