The Open Kitchen, Gosforth, Newcastle

Mar 28 2008 by Jane Hall, The Journal

THEY say that travel broadens the mind, which is a good thing. The down- side is what it does to the ozone layer. Every journey we make punctures yet another hole in the protection it affords us from global warming.

While some trips are unavoidable, when it comes to food we can reduce the burden on the ecosystem and buy local produce.

With this maxim firmly in mind I combined my bit for the planet with Fairtrade principles and toddled off to Open Kitchen in Gosforth, Newcastle. OK has been ahead of the field in both respects, championing the causes of local food and fair deals for farm workers.

Our starters exemplified how to bring ethically sound food to the table in delicious dishes. In the hands of chef Andreas, the humble leek and potato soup was elevated to star status. The creamy texture, with just a hint of grainy potato starch, had slivers of leek floating in the body of the soup. Crunchy islands of garlicky French bread croutons bobbled in the middle and a twirl of rocket accentuated the green-over-cream colour scheme. This was the best version I’ve ever had of this underrated broth and showed how simple can be done with panache.

Just to prove the point that this was not a flash in the pan, the quality of the boudin noir confirmed that something very special is happening here. The finesse of the black pudding, more mousse than pudding, brought subtle blends of spice and meat together, laid over toast with a ginger-apple relish and a flourish of salad garnish. We could have stopped there and been satisfied, but our journey had only begun: there were two more courses to travel through.

Our high expectations were not disappointed by what followed. The corn fed chicken, cooked two ways, proved that good quality products underpin excellent dishes. The buttery, succulent breast-meat sat beside confit leg and thigh, which made the absolute most of the dark meat and was a revelation to me that the poor cousins of the breast could be paraded with such aplomb. A huge scoop of fluffy mash held all three up for inspection and the rich jus was happy to play a supporting role.

The seared Brill, a cross between regal halibut and workaday whiting, struck a flavour/texture balance with the mash and herby sauce, and piquant caper berries, bringing something sassy to the dish.

Keeping it local, the assiette of apple made the most of this fruit, with a frilled pastry case of cinnamon apple and a generous slice of creamy parfait on a slender layer of glassy apple jelly. A great mix of all things appley.

The cheese platter echoed this from a dairy angle. A robust Lancastrian Blue, softer and moister than its Shropshire cousin, was accompanied by a gentler Ribblesdale goats’ cheese. The dish got even closer to home with a favourite of mine, Doddington Baltic from Wooler in Northumberland. The thoughtful taste range and sweet-spiced relish, plus crunchy authentic oatcakes and a glass of tawny vintage port, produced a glorious celebration of English cheeses.

This restaurant is so ethically sound that even the water is not-for-profit. The only deception, if you can call it that, is that the menu cannot tell you what treats lie in store.

The descriptions underplay the excellence of the kitchen and the laid-back style of the service blows no fanfares, leaving the food to tell you exactly what the score is and, in my book, it’s 100% plus.

Information

Address: The Open Kitchen, Moor Court Annexe, Gosforth, Newcastle. Tel: (0191) 285-2909

Open: Tuesday-Saturday 6pm-9.30pm, Sunday 12 noon-3pm

Where is it?: Above the Gosforth Squash Club next to the Kwik Fit garage on the corner of Grandstand Road and Kenton Road.

First impressions: Having climbed the winding stairs, the discreet space at the top is tastefully decorated in muted greens and creamy white with a friendly café feel to the place.

Welcome: Relaxed and warm.

Style, design and furnishings: They make the most of the space with chunky tables, stylish cutlery and the minimum of fuss.

Cuisine: Ethical meets the best of modern British.

Wine: Limney, Horsmonden dry white 2006. An organic English wine from East Sussex. A complex bowl with apple cider on the nose, a layered flavour structure and a delightfully strong finish.

Service: Very good timing and style.

Value: £84 is the right price for food of this quality with the added value of good principles.