Henri’s, 59 Bridge Street

Mar 21 2008 by Jane Hall, The Journal

WHAT’S in a name? Apparently a rose smells as sweet no matter what it’s called. The same thing can be said of Henri’s. The last time I dined there the food flowed from one excellent course to another, until only a delicious memory remained.

Recently, Henri decided to go out on a high and sold the business. I felt a ripple of sadness that I’d never relive that experience, until I heard that Black Door had bought it. What joy to find chef Dave Kennedy in charge of the kitchen and Black Door’s standards picking up where Henri’s left off. So, on the crest of well-placed optimism, we journeyed to Morpeth with every expectation of another excellent meal, and were not disappointed.

The well-designed menu offered such a good spread of dishes that I was torn between several. My companion narrowed the field in her inimitable style by removing one from each section for herself. I chose mine and we set about enjoying a glass of a rather good Malbec and some herb-salty olives.

One of the indicators of a good restaurant is the menu’s descriptions. I’m always suspicious when purple prose is attached to a dish. Mr K keeps it simple on the page, but so subtle on the plate. My crispy goat’s cheese starter was what I call a pinball dish. The crumbed, chalky-sweet cheese, deep-fried to a perfect gold, was escorted by a sour cream dressing and earthy sweet hazelnuts. The flavours and textures bounced around with fresh salad leaves and coriander, until it was hard to know where the next surprise was coming from.

Her watercress salad came with fold upon fold of red-spined chard and bottle green watercress, with finely sliced red onion, like tiny scimitars, and a just this side of good salty dressing. The crispy bacon fat, its meaty stripes crossed over the salad, balanced a white frilled dome of perfectly poached egg. The golden yolk dribbled down over the leaves to make this a heavenly start.

Add slices of fresh bread and you have the ideal light lunch dish. This being dinner, we were ready for a little more.

The meal glided on flawlessly with crisp-skinned confit of duck balanced by a catwalk-thin layer of fat enveloping succulent leg meat. Glossy braised red cabbage and al dente chestnuts made this a hearty dish. Hidden potatoes and silverskin onions made any side dish unnecessary.

My halibut was wonderful. This graceful fish had been treated with great respect to allow its natural flavours to shine through, with the fillet as softly yielding as a goosedown pillow. A tempura of Farne Island oyster floated on top and a base layer of baby vegetables echoed the sweet innocence of the dish. With all fish coming from the local quay, this is food at its freshest.

Needless to say, desserts kept the flag flying. The creme fraiche brulee had a top-class sugar crust and piquant custard and the intensely sweet Lindisfarne Mead Parfait, with its crazy paving of crunchy cinder toffee and hazy honey sauce, was superb. A small pile of prune compote added a rich darkness to the palette.

One thing is for sure, this is an outstanding restaurant and Morpeth is lucky to have landed such a star.

With every expectation of another excellent meal, we were not disappointed

Address: Henri’s, 59 Bridge Street, Morpeth, Northumberland

Tel: (01670) 516200

Open: Restaurant upstairs Monday-Saturday 12pm-2.30pm, 5.30pm-9.30pm; Sunday 12pm-3.00pm. Bar menu downstairs seven days 12pm-7.30pm.

Where is it? At the eastern end of Morpeth High Street opposite the bridge.

First impressions: Cafe chic downstairs and restaurant chic on the first floor.

Welcome: Relaxed and friendly.

Style, design and furnishings: Understated colour scheme of grey green walls, sanded floor, dark brown wood tables and leather chairs needs a bit of visual warmth to feel comfortable.

Cuisine: The very best of modern British.

Wine: Finca la colonia Malbec 2007. Deep ruby body, confident frame and elegant finish, £14.90

Service: Very smooth and responsive.

Value: With food this good you don’t mind paying a little more than usual; £70.50 was very fair price.

Parking: Large car park 50 yards down the road.

Disabled facilities: Not accessible.