La Gabbia, Boyd Street, Ouseburn Valley, Newcastle

Feb 8 2008 by Geoff Laws, The Journal

AMAZINGLY, La Gabbia is the only Italian restaurant in Newcastle with no licence – yet. As they wait for the day when they can dispense 12% proof dolce vita, we can either bring our own or sign up to the £22 Easy To Please menu and get a “complimentary” bottle.

Although an inventive way around the licensing laws, the dishes on offer in the other menu were a bigger draw. I weighed up the balance of going with the £22 offer or making a chilly foray into the night to Threshers to buy something from their chiller and hot-footing it back for a freer choice.

I was relieved of this tortuous decision by my companion who’d already chosen and was dangling the car key. I did the hot-footing and she did the bread-and-oil-dipping, until I returned with some Sauvignon Blanc, for which our affable waiter provided the corkscrew.

My first course of winter lamb broth warmed the chilled cockles of my heart. A bowlful of rustic broth, with globules of goodness glimmering on the surface, restored my circulation with an inner glow.

Tiny pinwheels of pasta, chunky vegetables and lamb in herby, tomato stock, made this a meal in itself. My already cosy companion managed to demolish her robust starter of baked goats’ cheese and salad. The crisp-edged cheese melted across lightly toasted bread.

A pile of crinkly radicchio, finely sliced red onion, cherry tomatoes and a well-seasoned dressing produced a healthy backdrop to the rich cheese.

She also worked her way through her first glass of wine, which went rather well with this dish and, as it turned out, the fish dish that followed. I saved the one I was allowed (being the dedicated driver!) for my main course. How fair is that? You’d have thought after my chivalrous efforts there would be some balance of justice in the drinking, but no! I’m convinced the woman has no conscience, but don’t tell her I said so or there’ll be hell to pay.

Her main course of fillet of cod was softly firm and full of natural flavours, proving that, unlike so many others, this chef knows exactly when to turn off the heat and let the fish do the rest. A buttery tarragon sauce added gentle richness to this successful dish.

My pheasant breasts, wrapped in pancetta, was a well-crafted dish, with all the wintry themes rolled into one.

Creamy oyster mushrooms soaked up the red wine sauce around the hearty escalope, with braised shallots, fluffy mash and crispy leeks, plus an attractive garnish of stained-glass bright redcurrants.

If we’re talking about balance, this one was at the opposite end of the scale to the cod and showed the chef can do both equally well; a point that was reinforced by a handsome side dish of classic ratatouille. Desserts underscored the point between homemade and bought in.

All the usual bought in suspects were revolving ominously in the chiller cabinet and my fears were realised in the dull as ditchwater tiramisu and disappointing ice creams.

We’ll gloss over this, especially as I was promised that they are about to buy from another source.

My suggestion is, chef, make your own and maintain your good standard throughout.

This chef knows exactly when to turn off the heat and let the fish do the rest

Information

Open: Monday-Thursday 12 noon-10.30pm; Friday-Saturday 12 noon-11pm; Sunday 10am-1pm.

Where is it? Boyd Street is parallel to Stoddart Street behind the Biscuit Factory in Newcastle.

First impressions: A super sophisticated bar/dining area leads into another well-designed dining space. Very impressive.

Welcome: Bustling and friendly.

Style, design and furnishings: Rich marron and cream walls with bold sweeps in the carefully placed canvases. Dramatic flooring and milk chocolate chairs with very good lighting, make the most of the different areas.

Cuisine: You can get pizza/pasta dishes but there’s also proper Italian cuisine on offer here.

Service: Very smooth and relaxed. The waiter knows his art and does it well.

Value: £39.20 was a very good price for a largely good meal.

Parking: Street parking immediately outside.

Disabled facilities: Fully accessible.