Wagamama, Old Eldon Square, Newcastle

Feb 1 2008 by Geoff Laws, The Journal

NOBODY could call me a stick in the mud. I’ve always tried something at least once before deciding on its value.

That’s how I learned gliding is a fabulous flight of fancy come true and horse riding is not, particularly the landing part. Similarly, I would willingly seat myself on a well-upholstered chair in a softly lit restaurant, but resist canteen-style refectory tables and benches. Comfort usually equates with quality in my book.

This general principle didn’t go down well with the Happy Shopper, who was muttering something about somebody being a Grumpy Old Man when I suggested Wagamama in Newcastle’s old Eldon Square was not the best place for a spot of lunch between shopping forays. Amazingly, the shopping campaign resulted in finding ourselves at Wagamama’s door just as this wearied beast of burden was about to collapse under the strain of the bags. I needed little persuasion that this was our best half-time option.

We stepped inside, were shown to a freshly set table and the bags were stowed nearby. The place was buzzing with families, friends and other men who were clearly in the same packhorse role as me. I took in the menu and it was at this point that things started looking up. Everything sounded fresh and light and choosing became a pleasant task, unlike the ordeal by fitting room I’d endured that morning.

Alcohol was out, because one needs a clear head on days like these, and a freshly squeezed combination of apple, orange and passion fruit juices promised just that. The Happy Shopper chose apple juice mixed with a refreshing twist of lime for the sparkle she needed for the afternoon’s endeavours. We selected our main courses and I leant back to relax, only to rem- ember, as I almost tipped off the seat, that benches don’t have backs. No matter, sitting down was luxury enough.

Everything is cooked to order, so some dishes are ready sooner than others. My main course arrived slightly ahead of hers, but she deftly helped me sample the mound of lightly teppan-fried noodles, speckled with sesame seeds, that wove their way around chunky shards of spring onion, shallots and capsicum, juicy little prawns, fried chicken and bean- sprouts. A gently spiced sauce matched with julienne strips of pickled ginger gave depth and height to the flavours.

This was first-class fast food and I was grateful that the noodles’ slipperiness stretched her chop- stick skills and gave me a fighting chance. When her dish of ebi raisukaree arrived the sharing principle was shelved. Her bowl was piled high with sticky rice, butterfly prawns, onions and mangetouts swathed in a deliciously spiced coconut and lime sauce. A wedge of lime for extra zing and a coriander garnish made this a delight.

My dessert of chocolate fudge cake was so rich it had a week’s worth of calories crammed into one indulgent slice, plus a very good vanilla ice cream. The Happy Shopper had a duo of sorbets, with a bold mango and a subtle grapefruit scented, lychee sorbet forming a great alliance.

Very satisfied sighs followed this experience and, as we dived back into the shopping maelstrom, I was a changed man, a convert to the wonder of Wagamama.

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Name: Wagamama

Address: 8 Eldon Square, Newcastle

Tel: (0191) 233-0663

Open: Monday-Saturday 12pm-11pm; Sunday 12pm-10.00pm

First impressions: A light, open space with bags of room but without any sense of emptiness.

Welcome: Fresh, light and friendly.

Style, design and furnishings: Floor-to-ceiling plate glass, chunky wooden tables and benches, quarry tile flooring and massive canvases keep décor to a minimum, yet the place exudes friendly atmosphere and there’s plenty going on.

Cuisine: Oriental – the best sort of fast food.

Wine: Just fruit juices for us this time.

Service: Our waitress, Erika, had youthful charm and a naïve style that suited very well.

Value: £29.20

Parking: You’ll have to use the multi-storeys for this one, or better still catch a bus.

Disabled facilities: Fully accessible.