Raval, Church Street, Gateshead Quays

Jan 25 2008 by Geoff Laws, The Journal

LAST year, our friend Brendan ‘The Spice King’ conquered Indian cuisine. He demonstrated his supreme talents in variously wonderful meals and graciously invited us sometimes to savour the delights of his newly acquired skills.

We wanted to repay his generosity and a meal at Raval on Gateshead Quays presented itself as just that opportunity – if it was good enough. The taste challenge was on.

The chic decor and handsome design of the restaurant instantly passed muster, but the food was the thing, so we set forth on our quest with starters of tandoori scallops and lobster and mango salad. The lobster’s curled, articulated shell held soft meat partly covered with diced, syrupy mango that was lightly spiced to form the perfect companion to the subtle flavour of the lobster. A mini timbale of julienne vegetables in spiced vinaigrette plus a swirl of coriander dressing created a deliciously fragrant mix that was an immediate hit.

The trio of tandoori spiced, soft-hearted scallops came with a delicate salad garnish and a sassy ginger and mint chutney. These dishes formed a superb introduction to the very best of sophisticated Indian cuisine – and so it continued with main courses of sea bass and murg makhani.

The bass’ beautifully pale body rolled and rolled again around itself, capturing all the fishy flavour in the delicate white flesh. A tomato and ghee rich sauce formed a glassy, almost viscous base to this well-balanced dish and griddle fresh naans helped to wipe the plate clean. The murg makhani was everything it should be. The supreme of chicken was stuffed with minced nuts and herbs, with a rich tomato/butter sauce holding the spices in its robust body.

A side dish of rice with saffron and peas and another of mixed vegetables spiked with cloves worked well to produce a delicately spiced, easy on the eye experience.

Most Indian restaurants don’t major on desserts. Consequently one is usually offered either one or two flavours of kulfi or one of a number of almost too sweet confections. Raval is a very different matter.

The foursome on offer were intriguing and it was difficult to choose, but eventually we did and were rewarded with dishes that threw down the gauntlet to other restaurants.

The carrot-pistachio cream pudding presented us with warm quenelles of carrot and pistachio with dots of fruit syrup artistically arranged around. A dense mango ice cream came with a chilli surprise scattered on top.

This was a cleverly constructed dish that worked very well indeed, as did the cream of coconut dessert.

The sweet, creamed coconut came with rich ice cream and a warm, honey glazed pineapple, with just a hint of cinnamon, and a punch of chilli jam and trellis of sweet fruit syrup.

Raval is clearly pushing the boundaries of Indian cuisine into new and sophisticated areas with diverse and novel approaches to classical recipes. The dishes’ stylish presentations make them a visual delight even before the taste test.

And what you see is what you get, a delicious and innovative treat that is even good enough for Brendan.

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Address: Church Street, Gateshead Quays.

Tel: (0191) 477-1700.

Open: Monday-Saturday 12pm–2.30pm; 6pm –11.30pm.

Where is it? On the eastern side of the Gateshead end of the Tyne Bridge.

First impressions: The frosted glass floor to ceiling windows create great views of the Tyne Bridge and the cool, comfortable, chic interior make this a great place to sit and watch the world roll by.

Welcome: Warm and friendly.

Style, design and furnishings: Intelligent design is in every artfully created space in this restaurant. The use of colour and shape, texture and light has been so well thought out that the interior deserves an award.

Cuisine: The best of modern Indian.

Wine: Chateau Bellerue, Chollet Entre Deux (Bordeaux) Sauvignon Blanc Muscadelle and Semillon Blanc. Crisp and fruity with a finely textured creamy finish. £14.95.

Service: Very smooth performance with a friendly edge.

Value: This is very good food at any price. £75.05.

Parking: Street parking right outside with a car park across the road.

Disabled facilities: Not fully accessible.