Seaham Hall aiming to be back in the stars

Jan 29 2010 by Katharine Capocci, The Journal

SEAHAM Hall was recently stripped of its Michelin star, but the fight is on to regain the ultimate accolade for eating excellence, as KATHARINE CAPOCCI reports.

IT was a blow to diners and staff alike when the North East’s only Michelin-starred restaurant was stripped of the prestigious dining award a few weeks ago.

The uber-stylish White Room restaurant at Seaham Hall in Seaham, County Durham, had held the award, the ultimate accolade for eating excellence, since 2007.

Cue disappointment all round as there’s something special about booking a really fancy restaurant for high days, holidays and special anniversaries.

That’s not to say the award-winning three AA rosettes restaurant isn’t still pretty special, though.

But there’s almost an indefinable air of excitement, an expectation of the unexpected, when dining out at a Michelin-star restaurant. And, of course, it’s a chance for talented chefs to go into show-off mode.

However the news that they had lost the star, though disappointing, was not entirely unexpected, explains Bernard Bloodworth, executive general manager at the five-star hotel and spa establishment.

It follows the departure in November last year of critically-acclaimed head chef, Kenny Atkinson, who left after an 18-month stint to join Rockliffe Hall in Hurworth near Darlington.

Many will recall Newcastle-born Kenny shot to fame last year after appearing on the BBC’s Great British Menu TV series.

Just two months after his departure from Seaham, the annual Michelin publication rescinded the restaurant’s coveted award.

The team at Seaham remain positive, though, and are very much focused on the stars of the future.

And with the official appointment last week of their new head chef Max Wilson, who worked as Kenny’s sous chef, it’s a case of “watch this space”.

Max, 31, is widely travelled, having worked in restaurants in France, Switzerland and Australia, and has exciting plans up his sleeve, more of which overleaf.

He has introduced his own prestige menu and a tasting menu and is putting in place “a new brigade” in the kitchen.

Bernard explains: “The reality was we knew that as soon as Kenny left the star would definitely go.”

Although the star stays with the establishment rather than moving with the chef, when there is a change of head chef, Michelin have to be informed. They will then carry out a new undercover inspection.

Bernard explains: “When the chef leaves there has to be a new inspection. They will award if they think fit but it is highly unusual because there needs to be consistency established.

“It’s a disappointment for us and it’s a disappointment for diners.

“It would be fabulous to get a star in a year but the reality is it will probably be two years.