WHAT a great foraging trip,” exclaims National Trust ranger James Howard as he strides out on the path running alongside the sluggish River Allen.
“A golf ball and a rugby ball all in one day!”
As the rest of the party look at him quizzically, he points at the exposed rocks on the other river bank. Lying there like a giant fluorescent lemon is indeed a rugby ball.
“I think I’ll nip across and get that,” James says.
“Just one moment,” admonishes expedition leader and wild food expert Rob Caton. “If you remember, we’re meant to be collecting wild garlic, not sporting trophies.”
James momentarily looks crestfallen. With good reason. It’s not often you come across such a fine specimen of a rugby ball in the middle of nowhere deep in the heart of Northumberland.
Wild garlic, or ramson as it is also known, is however, two a penny today here at the picturesque and peaceful National Trust-run Allen Banks and Staward Gorge estate near Bardon Mill. It is lining the paths, carpeting the floor of the ancient woodland (the largest in the county with some trees dating back more than 400 years) and clinging to the banks of the river.
The trick isn’t finding it, it’s trying to avoid trampling on it.
Wild garlic, as the name suggests, is related to its cultivated cousin. But unlike domesticated garlic that is grown for its bulb, it’s the leaves of the wild variety that are its selling point.
It’s easily identified from its smell, long, lush leaves similar to those of Lily-of-the-Valley and, at this time of year, white flowers. It’s a versatile plant. The leaves, flowers and bulb are all edible, but the latter are small and fiddly to handle. As Rob Caton, who runs Byreness-based outdoor adventure provider Wild Harmony, says: “It’s the leaves that are the business. They’re delicious raw or cooked and work really well in salads, soups, stews and sandwiches.
“The leaves are a great way to jazz up your ham and tomato or cheese sandwiches if you’re out for a walk. All you have to do is pick two or three leaves and slip them between the bread.
Rob handily has an antidote for garlic breath. And it’s one that nature has kindly provided – wood sorrel. The fresh, light-green leaves with their refreshing lemony taste are at their best at this time of year. Chew on a handful and everything will be, if not quite smelling of roses, at least cleaner and clearer.
Wild garlic has recently become a trendy ingredient in certain top- flight restaurants. It has a much milder taste than the cultivated clove garlic.
“What’s great about foraging is that what you pick is free,” says Rob. “The restaurants will be charging the earth for eating something that is readily available in the countryside.
“It loves semi-shaded, moist conditions, so woodland, copses and other sheltered places are ideal to go searching for it.
“I love wild garlic. The leaves are fantastic wrapped around firm white fish or lamb, chopped up and added to salads or sandwiches, and even in salad dressings.
“The flowers can be dipped in batter and deep fried to make an excellent appetiser or added to fresh salads for a bit of colour. You can even make a form of pesto by combining the leaves with olive oil, pine nuts and parmesan cheese and adding it to pasta.”
Or you can find a leafy clearing in the woods and watch as Rob rustles up a simple wild garlic omelette.
While he lights the portable camping stove and sets about chopping a tomato, National Trust volunteer Laura Thomson tries a raw ramson leaf teamed with cream cheese and slices of Spanish chorizo piled on a crispbread (this may be a foraging expedition, but who says you have to slum it?)