Warkworth House Hotel, Warkworth, Northumberland.
Warkworth isn't short of places to eat. Nestling in the crook of the River Coquet, with the castle ruins gazing down the hill to the picturesque village square and church, it's got just about everything a tourist could want.
So, unsurprisingly, there are plenty of restaurants to cater for the influx.
Over the years, I've eaten at most of them, but never at the Warkworth House Hotel. As we sped through Amble, past the marina, I was racking my brain to think why, but, when I saw that magnificent castle, like a jagged tooth against the evening sky, I stopped bothering myself and started thinking of the meal in prospect.
The hotel's elegant, 19th Century façade is redolent of a time when the rich lived well and the rest got by as best they could. Today the hotel's restaurant gives everyone equal shares in the good things in life.
Huge chunks of soft bread and chilled butter tested our spreading techniques. She goes for slivers layered across the surface like slate roof tiles, whereas I go for the mini-pat squashed between mini-chunks. It all tastes the same in the end.
My classic seafood bouillabaisse arrived and what a treat it was. An island of white fish, coral scallops, squid and sliced shallots was surrounded by a delicately earthy lobster bisque. The combination of everything fishy with very good bisque made this a great start to what turned out to be a great meal.
My companion was enjoying her cream of cauliflower and Stilton soup, although she would have preferred the punch of blue rather than the chef's choice of the blander white Stilton, but the chef's master in his own kitchen, and he showed it beyond doubt with the main courses.
His pan fried beef fillet with baked aubergines and caramelised potatoes with tomato and thyme jus was superb. Cooked rare, the soft-grained meat was full to bursting with juicy flavours. The succulent aubergines were a happy escort and adding the sweet flavours of caramelised onions with the potatoes and the fragrant sauce was an inspired move. Top marks!
He scored highly again with his baked monkfish medallions with roasted Mediterranean vegetables, saffron potatoes and tomato coulis. The meaty fish tails splayed out from a hub of lightly roasted celery, tomatoes and courgettes, adding colour and texture to the dish to make a harmonious whole. A bowl of perfectly al dente vegetables underscored the chef's skill and forward planning.
Surely desserts couldn't top this. Wrong! My uncharacteristic choice of sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce was rewarded with a feather-light, gingery sponge dotted with dates and a sweet sauce that created a heavenly finish. My companion's Cointreau pannacotta was an example of how brightly this demure dessert can sparkle. The mound of vanilla speckled, creamy pannacotta had a light and lively texture and bags of flavour.
From start to finish this was a knockout meal. Congratulations chef!
Where is it? Warkworth House Hotel, 16 Bridge Street, Warkworth, Northumberland. Tel: (01665) 711 276
Open: Seven days 7pm-9pm; Sunday 12pm-2.30pm.
Getting there: From Warkworth village cross, walk towards the bridge and it's on your left.
First impressions: Contemporary design sitting comfortably within an historic building.
Welcome: Friendly and efficient.
Style, design and furnishings: Comfy seats, well-lit tables with good quality linen, cream and carmine red colour scheme and a muted stream of classic pop songs to fill any gaps in halting conversation.
Cuisine: Modern British.
Wine: A very well-priced bottle of Three Rivers, Sauvignon Blanc 2005. A nosegay of lychees breezed through the natural sugars of this very drinkable wine. A bargain at £13.50.
Service: The team served with natural ease and efficiency.
Value: £78.85 was very well spent and the memory will linger on.
Parking: Spaces at the back of the hotel.
Disabled facilities: Fully accessible.
