Eateries develop taste for local food

Dec 18 2008 by Alastair Gilmour, The Journal

WE'RE rich. The North East abounds in natural produce from freshly-caught seafood to wild game and potatoes that actually taste as if they’ve been buried in prime soil for three months.

We can sit down to honey from the banks of the Tweed, mussels hauled from the North Sea, venison from County Durham, organic beer from Tees Valley and dairy produce from Northumberland that’s served freshly-bottled, churned into ice-cream, or matured into fine cheese. The provenance of our foodstuffs has never been in doubt but it has taken a long time for their quality to be reflected by all but the most enterprising of the region’s restaurants.

Fortunately more and more people are taking notice of the enlightened few who insist that fresh, seasonal and local means giving customers what they want and what they deserve.

Not so long ago, sourcing ingredients that were sown, nurtured and raised locally was regarded as an eccentric pastime, a crank’s mission or a fanatic’s whimsy, but the realisation has dawned that a well-prepared menu carefully constructed from the likes of heather-fed lamb and spring asparagus can be the difference between building a reputation for gastronomy and the very survival of a restaurant.

Helen Spark, project manager at Made In Northumberland – part of Northumberland Tourism – reports positively on the benefits that local sourcing can bring.

She says: “We’ve been hosting producer days, a bit like trade fairs, where suppliers meet other local businesses. Some of them didn’t know there were all these good food producers on their doorstep.

“We’ve been showing businesses from Beal to Haltwhistle that they can source locally and satisfy customer demand while still making a profit. There seemed to be a fear of change in the food service sector and there’s not as much entrepreneurial activity here as in Cornwall and Yorkshire, but several people are now really into it.”

Eateries which have realised the importance of sourcing food and drink locally could be in the running for The Journal Taste Award: Best Use of Local Produce at the North East Restaurant Awards 2009. Now in their second year, they are run in association with the Gourmet Society and sponsored by The Journal, our sister paper The Evening Gazette in Middlesbrough, North East crockery and cutlery firm Crosby’s and German catering equipment supplier Schönwald.

The Taste award seeks to honour those restaurants, hotels, bed and breakfasts, pubs and cafes that have not only achieved outstanding levels of excellence with their food, but whose menu changes regularly to reflect the seasons and the plethora of fresh ingredients available between the Rivers Tweed and Tees.

We will be looking for the people and places that are passionate about promoting uncomplicated, local food to diners – the message at the heart of The Journal’s Taste campaign launched at the end of January this year to encourage consumers, retailers, restaurants and hotels to buy, use and eat local for the good of our health and the regional economy.

Nominations for this award can only be cast by food industry professionals, such as chefs and restaurant owners. Judging will be conducted by a panel put together by The Journal Taste team.

Journal editor Brian Aitken said: “The Journal’s Taste campaign is about encouraging growth in small local farmers, artisan producers and independent restaurants.

“Even a small increase in local food purchasing will help create a more viable local industry, contribute to a better environment and healthier and prosperous communities.”

The aim of the North East Restaurant awards is to celebrate and highlight the region’s burgeoning restaurant scene. To this end, readers are being encouraged to enjoy some of the exquisite food served up by dining out at one of the region’s 500-plus restaurants and gastro pubs. About 500,000 voting cards are being distributed to restaurants in the region, giving diners the chance to nominate their favourite in the 14 categories to be decided by the public.

“Over the last 12 years, Northumberland hasn’t had one restaurant in The Good Food Guide,” says Helen Spark, “but next year we’re going to have five. We’re encouraging people to see that providing local produce can make the difference that visitors will thank you for.”

Local food producers have one thing in common – they care about what they’re doing.

They have a determination to put quality first which allows chefs to prepare food that simply tastes better.

It gives staff pride in what they offer the diner; it also gives the regional economy a boost, particularly at the rural enterprise and small business level where it’s needed most.

To cast your vote in the North East Restaurant Awards 2009, go online to www.journallive.co.uk/taste or www.northeastrestaurantawards.co.uk