It’s the country’s coolest dessert

Nov 20 2007 by Neil Mckay, The Journal

CHEF Sean Wilkinson doesn’t just have a kitchen – he also has a laboratory.

Now one of his lab experiments has paid off after his unique version of tea and toast – made with liquid nitrogen – was named Britain’s top dessert.

Sean, who describes his creations as molecular gastronomy, practises his craft in a lab at Durham University.

And his experiments are served up to diners at Durham’s Gourmet Spot restaurant in The Avenue, where he is head chef.

Now his tea and toast – a dish consisting of balloon of Earl Grey tea inflated with nitrogen gas and frozen with liquid nitrogen, served with brown toast and marmalade purée, raspberry jelly and shortcake – won Restaurant Magazine’s award for Britain’s Best Dish at a ceremony in London.

In doing so Sean, 35, of Middlesbrough, beat off competition from two London restaurants, The Burlington Club in Mayfair, and Sketch, named 18th best restaurant in the world last year.

“When it was announced that a creation called tea and toast had won there was a stunned silence,” said Sean.

“This is the first thing I have ever won. I am self taught and the university allow me to experiment in one of their laboratories. What I create I call molecular gastronomy.

“I am always thinking of new ideas. I saw something similar to this on the internet from a restaurant in Chicago, but nothing like it is served anywhere else in Britain.

“I am simply delighted to help to put Durham on the map.

“Since this restaurant opened six months ago, local people have been so welcoming and friendly.”

Sean, who says his inspiration was his aunt, the late Peggy King, whom he described as a brilliant pastry cook, has dedicated his award to her.

“If anybody taught me, it was her. I had no formal training either in cookery or in science – I am completely self-taught – but my mind is always racing, wanting to come up with new ideas.

“For New Year’s Eve I am looking to create a dessert encased in gold,” he said.

But he prefers plain food himself.

“My favourite dish is the Sunday roast my girlfriend’s mother cooks.

“Of course, I taste my own cooking, but I never sit down and eat any of my own creations.”

Having sampled Sean’s tea and toast, it is safe to say that he is missing a treat.