A fine menu from Kashmir to Kerala

Dec 8 2006 By Geoff Laws, The Journal

Char Mausum, Station Road End Stannington, Morpeth, Northumberland.

When our children were little, we used to go to London to visit their grandparents. Having packed the boot with all the precision of a mission to outer space, they would bring down their piles of "essentials".

Over time this motley collection changed and Spot the Dog gave way to comics and colouring-in books. The My Little Pony years were followed by the Transformers period. Storybook tapes helped the miles fly by, whereas the book of 1001 "Knock Knock" Jokes doubled their length. I've yet to find out which relative slipped that one in under the Christmas present radar.

The other important element was the timely café breaks. Coffee and croissant for us, milkshakes and running around for the under-nines. Eventually the grandparents saw the light, moved to the North-East and the A1 treks ended.

Hurrah! With that ordeal over, I never thought I would find myself in a roadside café again, until restaurateur Mohammed Iqbal took over the shell of a Little Chef and turned that caterpillar into his butterfly.

Gone is every trace of melamine and the "with fries" menu. In, is a cleverly designed interior with a menu that stretches from Kashmir to Kerala. A sophisticated setting for very grown-up food.

After crisp poppadums and a range of sweet and one surprisingly spicy pickle, my starter of Shahi Machli arrived. This was typical of every dish that night, in that the cod fillet was gently spiced, not swamped with flavours, so the natural fishiness came through the crunchy coating. Savoury fried onions with cooling slices of cucumber, tomato and tangy lemon added extra layers of flavour.

My companion's Masaledar Badak was a superb version of this crispy duck pancake.

The puffy puri, with bubbles of crispy air, was wrapped round a generous seam of richly seasoned, shredded meat.

A shallow pool of creamy coriander yoghurt, fenced in by a trail of sweet chilli sauce, made this as handsome as it was tasty. Most tables were full, which, for a Wednesday night is good going. A party of four came in, one with his leg in plaster and a chair was provided so he could rest his cast-weary limb while he dined.

You'd have to go some to beat that for service!

Our main courses continued this pleasant experience. The Goan fish curry featured glossy chunks of chilli-spiced salmon in a creamed coconut masala, with earthy tamarind and fronds of fresh coriander to finish.

The tightly grained fish was perfectly cooked and, in this showcase, showed a different side to its character.

The Lamb Jardaloo was another delicious dish, with tender pieces of lamb snuggling up with fruity apricots in rich gravy, topped with a slender thatch of crispy potato strands.

Some fluffy boiled rice, a beautifully restrained Peshwari nan that avoided the obese, overstuffing favoured by some, and a dish of Brinjal Bhajee, with tiny cubes of glossy aubergine and jewel tomatoes in an onion rich sauce, brought everything together.

Char Mausum is a million miles away from what used to be there but, luckily for us, it's right on our doorstep.

Address: Char Mausum, Station Road End, Stannington, Morpeth, Northumberland, NE61 6DR Tel: 01670 789011 / 789012

Open: 7 days 5pm - 11pm

Where is it?

On the A1, just south of Morpeth. Take the Hepscott exit if you're coming south, or the Stannington Station exit if going north.

First impressions: A low level building with arty signage and a well-lit entrance. The décor makes the most of the space within, using lighting and colour to create interest.

Welcome: So friendly that you feel like a regular the first time you go.

Style, design and furnishings: Polished wooden floor, a mushroom and warm brown colour scheme with touches of gold. Dark wood tables, upholstered chairs and bold artwork. Simple and stylish.

Cuisine: Char Mausum is Hindi for Four Seasons. Although the cuisine is definitely Indian, with every region represented, seasonal specials also celebrate changes in the year.

Wine: We had a couple of Cobra beers, but there is a range of wines available.

Service: The light touch of a professional team was the hallmark here.

Value: At £46.85, including coffee, this was very good value.

Parking: Loads of space right outside.

Disabled facilities: Fully accessible.