Matfen Hall, Matfen, Northumberland

Jun 13 2008 by Geoff Laws, The Journal

IT was a perfect spring evening. The low sun was brushing the fields with long shadows as we drove to Matfen Hall in Northumberland.

From our window table we could see manicured fairways edged by a meandering stream and golfers, struggling to get to the 18th but with the 19th in mind, enjoying the mellowing warmth. It’s hard to think of a more perfect setting in which to play golf, but my course was much easier and the only irons required were already placed in eating order.

I successfully navigated the menu and set about my starter of pressed confit of grey squirrel and duck terrine. You’re probably imagining furry little fellows like Squirrel Nutkin or the ever-helpful Tufty, but they are the sweet-natured red ones. Their grey cousin has become a menace and needs to be culled and I was doing my bit to help the cause.

Mixed with the earthy flavours of duck and transformed into a terrine, the unwanted intruder had at last found his place in my heart, or should that be stomach? All his best qualities shone forth, enhanced by an apple-ginger marmalade and peppery rocket salad garnish.

My squeamish companion chose the safer option of pan-fried Northumbrian game millefeuille. This interesting savoury pastry consisted of mini-steaks of seared, soft-centred venison alternating with slices of nut-brown millefeuille pastry and zigzags of balsamic syrup. Good on the eye and the taste buds.

As the last of the pastel-sweatered golfers made his way off the final green, and the sun underlit the occasional clouds, I was struck by the calm beauty of this scene. Although man-designed, the spread of natural colours proved that what we do best is to work in partnership with nature, not try to dominate it. Good cooking comes from the same place, as the next dishes proved.

The poached east Atlantic hake fillet with mussel linguini celebrated the fish, with its white flesh glowing through appetisingly seasoned and charred skin. A mass of black linguini was a rather uneasy colour companion, changing from black to grey with the cream sauce. The snaking pasta was studded with coral mussels, red cherry tomatoes and striped lardons. The flavours were good but the colour palette less so.

My rosemary roasted rack of Matfen Home Farm organically reared lamb was superb, if a little short on meat. The three-boned cutlet looked large, but released only a medallion of moist lamb. A spray of purple sprouting broccoli and a tower of Dauphinoise potato sat in a gravy rich with meat juices. Scoops of creamed roast butternut squash added sweetness and, among all the heat, a cool redcurrant jelly added understated contrast. This food had all the hallmarks of a confident chef who knows his way around the world of ingredients.

My 18th hole was a magnificent pistachio soufflé with walnut flapjack. Served in a breakfast cup, this foamy soufflé, cocoa coated and with a floaty centre, was bursting with bubbles. The walnut flapjack kept the nutty sweetness theme going to a delicious end.

My companion’s kumquat marmalade rolypoly and custard had only a passing resemblance to any of the rolypolys I’ve ever had. A sweet but bitter-edged, perfumed marmalade held starchy suet layers in a pool of joyous vanilla custard sauce. This is not a pudding for the faint-hearted but the perfect harmony showed how inspired nursery food can be elevated to haute cuisine by the chef’s élan.

Golfers may feel the need to earn their rewards at the end of the day, but I think we all deserve treats from time to time, and this meal ranks high on my list. Bravo Matfen.

INFORMATION

Address: Matfen Hall, Matfen, Northumberland. Tel: (01661) 886 500

Open: Seven days 6.45pm-9.15pm; Sunday 12.30pm-2.30pm.

Where is it? On the southern outskirts of Matfen village, about six miles west of Ponteland.

First impressions: The entrance is so understated it is almost like a back door and doesn’t sit comfortably with such an obviously imposing building. A twisting corridor leads into the drinks lounge, which looks a bit dated, but not in a good way.

Welcome: Efficient.

Style, design and furnishings: The room has all the grandeur of a well-stocked library with walls of shelves and books by the yard. The lighting is a little sombre with candles struggling to make an impact. Definitely an evening room.

Cuisine: Modern British.

Wine: Rioja Tempranillo 2005. Esencia Valdemor. Brightly coloured, young wine without much depth but a pleasant mix of unoaked, ripe morello cherries. £19.95.

Service: Polite and formal.

Value: £92.75.

Parking: Ample parking in the grounds.

Disabled facilities: Fully accessible.