Arami, Leazes Park Road, Newcastle

Apr 18 2008 by Geoff Laws, The Journal

YOU can’t blame climate change for every seasonal shake-up. For example, the timing of Easter results from mysterious calculations relating to the number of full moons after a certain date.

This year these time honoured sums produced such early dates that we had a springtime event in midwinter weather. This threw all the allotmenteer’s sowing and planting plans completely out of synch. I offered to help by digging the beds over and mending the greenhouse door, but, what with one thing and another, the weeks passed by and sitting in an armchair with a novel, looking out as the rain lashed down, was much more attractive than getting out there and doing it.

So, as the calendar turned to April and she found time to get down to the plot, she was not best pleased to find that not only had I not done what I’d promised, but all kinds of weed mayhem had been happening too.

The next morning there was a rumble of grumbling about absent helpers as she set off to the stables and I put on my wellies and gardening jacket. A swift diversion to Sainsbury’s and a box of Thornton’s went some way to lightening her gloom, but I still had a lot of ground to regain.

It was then I had the bright idea of a midweek treat, to show her how thoughtful I can be. A table at Arami in Newcastle looked good and she seemed suitably impressed. Parking was a breeze, which helps, and it was a short stroll to the restaurant. A glass of Kingfisher in hand, she perused the menu and lighted on a main course chicken dish and a duck starter.

I stood aside while she made her choices, but, with so much to choose from, it left me a virtually open field, but we’ll gloss over that.

Golden papadoms and chutneys set in train the dipping and crunching ritual before the starters arrived.

I was struck by the presentation quality. The haash tikka, four elliptical slices of duck breast, were placed propeller-like around a hub of cherry tomato on a small nose cone of lettuce. Although full of spices, the levels had been restrained enough to let the subtle flavour of the juicy meat come through. My tandoori lamb chops were at the other end of the spectrum. Swathed in a bold, scarlet sauce, the soft meat hiding below the surface was jam-packed with a tomato-chilli punchbag of flavour. It was so good it was all I could do not to pick the bones up for that finger-lickin’ experience.

After this, I estimated I was back in the good books. Hopefully, main courses would secure my place.

Her dish of honey chicken did not further my cause. It looked good, with the pieces of chicken breast in an amber coloured sauce, but it was an uneasy combination of sweet and creamy that was uncomfortably close to custard, because the spices were too understated to assert its savoury character over the honey/cream contingent.

My Machh Amritsari, however, more than made up for this disappointment. A white pepper buzz floated over the huge meaty slab of swordfish, draped in a rich tomato sauce that mixed in comfortably with the vegetables. An artistic spiral garnish of fresh tomato made the point that this restaurant has an eye for design.

Side dishes of bhindi, thin sliced shards of okra and softened onions in ghee, and peas pilau, the ghee glazed rice dotted with fresh peas, went well with both dishes. All the desserts were bought in, so no point trying them, but the espressos were good and the strong, mini wake-me-ups set us up for the cold night outside.

Overall, she had warmed to the evening and me, but I was a little apprehensive about what would happen when she discovered, after she’d gone to bed last night, I’d accidentally scoffed all the caramels while watching TV. That’s what comes of choosing chocolates by touch! Any suggestions as to how I can get out of this one will be very welcome.

Information

Address: 6-10 Leazes Park Road, Newcastle Tel: (0191) 222-0659.

Open: Monday-Saturday 11.30am-2.00pm, 5.30pm-11.30pm; Friday-Sunday 5pm-11.30pm

Where is it? At the Percy Street end of Leazes Park Road

First impressions: Frosted windows lend an air of privacy and the bar area offers a comfortable first staging post.

Welcome: Friendly, if a little formal.

Style, design and furnishings: Tipped mirrors reflect the goings-on around the beautifully designed interior spaces.

Cool greys, warm chocolate and subdued lighting make the most of the designer statements.

Cuisine: Sylhet region of Bangladesh influences the cuisine.

Wine: Kingfisher beer.

Service: Well timed and easy.

Value: £40.10 is a very fair price for a satisfying meal.

Parking: Street parking outside and lots of car parks around.

Disabled facilities: Fully accessible