The Pavilion, Alnwick Garden, Northumberland

Feb 29 2008 by Jane Hall, The Journal

CHILDREN – at least my two – seem to have bottomless pits for stomachs. Breakfast has barely passed into history before the eldest is asking when lunch is.

Exercise and the cold only serve to sharpen my two boys’ already hearty appetites. So it came as no surprise when son and heir uttered the familiar refrain, “when’s lunch?” as we explored The Alnwick Garden on a sunny but bitingly cold half-term Monday. The cereal bar and banana he had already consumed had obviously failed to hit the spot, and more sustenance was required. Now.

Younger brother perked up his ears on hearing the word “lunch” and decided to exit stage left on his own and head down the steps from the top of the Grand Cascade, where we had been admiring the tumbling mass of water, in what his nose must have told him was the general direction of food. It was the quickest our 16-month-old had moved all morning.

The ‘general direction’ led to the Pavilion, a stunning contemporary building made of glass and wood that sits at the entrance to the garden. One wing houses a cafe, in the other we briefly stopped to watch a group running through a line dancing routine. A quick glance at the notice board told us these were members of the Elderberries club, a project set up by Alnwick Garden to improve the wellbeing of older people by helping them socialise, boost their fitness and have fun. The 20 or so women moving in harmony to the choreographed moves certainly seemed to be enjoying themselves.

As youngest bopped his head along to the upbeat country music we made our way to the cafe. I wasn’t expecting much. Certainly not anything to satisfy the rumbles emanating from John David and Matthew’s tummies.

It’s sometimes nice to be proved wrong. And this was one occasion. Imagine my surprise when we wandered in and instead of over-priced jacket potatoes and dry, bland sandwiches, we instead spotted tables filled with families tucking into ‘real’ food.

We found a table by the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the garden with the Grand Cascade at its centre. The sun was pleasantly warm as it blazed in through the glass, and we were soon stripping off gloves, coats and scarves. I could have happily just sat and relaxed in the warmth, drinking in the view and watching other people’s children enjoying themselves.

“Mum, lunch?” came a plaintive voice. “We’re hungry.” Youngest banged both hands down on his high chair tray in agreement and gave me a look that said “get on with it.”

The hot counter offered a fine selection of meals, one of which was roast lamb with all the trimmings. Steak and kidney pie, lamb hot pot and a vegetarian curry were just some of the other hearty meals on the menu. John David opted for the children’s sausages and mash on behalf of himself and little ’un, with dad going for the leek and potato soup.

Two fat pork sausages, each from local Alnwick butcher R Turnbull and Son, nestled beside big scoops of creamy mashed potato and as many vegetables as could be piled on to the plates – broccoli, swede, roast potatoes, French beans and carrots. Giant portions for giant appetites. It didn’t take long for every last morsel to head south.

Daddy’s soup was a hearty combination of chunky potatoes and leek served with a rustic brown bread roll and butter. Just the sort of warming meal you want for a cold winter’s day.

My footsteps had taken me towards the salad bar. I piled my plate high with homemade coleslaw, moreish smoked chicken with peppers, rice with prawns and smoked salmon and a green leaf, tomato and black olives combo. I could have added a slice of quiche, but had no room left on the plate. All this for just £3.50.

All three boys were itching to get back into the garden, so we immediately steamed on to dessert. A warm homemade fruit scone for me with lashings of butter and blackcurrant jam and a slice of gooey lemon cake for dad, were washed down with steaming mugs of cappuccino. John David’s generous slice of chocolate cake was apparently “to die for,” while Matthew manfully waded through a caramel shortbread, leaving only the crumbs for daddy to clear up.

Then it was time to head out into the garden and (hopefully) lose the children in the maze.

Is that John David I can hear asking when afternoon tea is?

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Address: The Pavilion, Alnwick Garden, Alnwick, Northumberland Tel: (01665) 511350

Open: Breakfast 1011.30am everyday. Lunch 11.30am-3pm every day.

Where is it?: Take the A1 junction north of Alnwick signposted to Denwick. Brown tourist signs direct you to The Alnwick Garden.

First impressions: Contemporary glass house-style pavilion.

Welcome: Friendly.

Style, design and furnishings: Glass, wood, stone and steel.

Cuisine: Good home cooking. Much of the produce is from Northumberland: Meat from Alnwick butcher R Turnbull and Son; chicken from Blagdon Farm; ice cream from Wooler-based Doddington’s; cheese from Corbridge Larder and cakes and puddings from Heatherslaw Bakery near Cornhill.

Wine: As this is a cafe, there isn’t much selection. Aside from coffee and tea, water, fruit juices and fizzy drinks, there are glass-size bottles of wine, Alnwick IPA and bottles of Guinness.

Service: Self service.

Value: £27.25 for four of us. The children’s meal at £4.50 was exceptional value.

Parking: Large visitor car park across the road from the garden (£2 charge). Easy access parking facilities and a drop-off point are available nearer the garden.

Disabled facilities: Fully accessible.