Keeping it buttoned

Apr 18 2005 By Vicky Pepys, The Journal

Are we witnessing a revolution? Trendy guys are turning their backs on fleece and turning to knits.

Cardigans are this season's biggest style statement. It just needs to become a little warmer and cardigans will begin to flourish.

The casual cardigan originated in Britain and as worn by our dads and granddad's was ruthlessly derided.

How things change. And all that seems to have been required was a fresh look at the colour palette, a tweaking of measurements, a teaming of the right accessories and a kick-start created by something and somebody unexpected.

The kick-start could possibly be traced to Japan. So many UK design teams, clothing and homewear included, travel East for inspiration.

Where once the USA held inspiration for Europe, it's considered far too bland these days.

Fashion observer Tom Kitwood, 23, my nephew who is currently teaching English in Tokyo for a year, has witnessed a cardigan revival and regards the trend as being part of a general vintage movement.

Vintage, and even recycling, is a relatively new thing for Japan, but it's as strong a look as here, now.

"The vast majority of cardigans seen on the street are from the vintage clothes stores and second hand boutiques," says Tom.

"They tend to be worn in the geeky ironic way that is popular in Japan, and one of the most popular brands is Lacoste.

Almost all cardigans are plain and woollen, worn with jeans and a baggy necked T-shirt underneath, and popular colours are chocolate brown and light grey."

This sounds a rather boring colour palette, but consider that these same kids are possibly also wearing tapered white jeans, pointed toe shoes, 80s sunglasses, beanie or bobble hats perched precariously on heads and belts which Tom can only describe as "drastic".

And they'll probably also have committed the ultimate fashion and cultural protest by bleaching and dyeing their black locks to brown.

It's a trend that certainly caught the eye of Topman's Design and Product Development director Gordon Richardson a few seasons ago, and he has already declared that the label will champion the cardigan this season.

Suddenly all the high street brands are making the cardigan look incredibly hip.

Associate editor of GQ magazine, Charlie Porter, lists his current favourite outfit as being a pink Lyle & Scott cardigan worn with a red Top Man T-shirt and seven-year-old Comme de Garçon trousers.

T4 presenter Vernon Kaye is also currently sporting a Lyle & Scott cardigan on screen.

Locally, Strand, in Princess Square, Newcastle, received its delivery of Lyle & Scott cardigans in pink, sky blue and cream three days ago, and reports good sales already.

London and Paris-based Derrick Campbell, the Lyle & Scott brand director, has been guiding the label to its current quintessential moment over the past few years and developed a Vintage range which revives 80s colourways in traditional designs, but with a slim modern fit.

He says: "Our best selling colourways this season are what we call British colours.

They're not colours which sell in Europe, but they are seen as incredibly trendy here like pale blue, yellow, and salad green, as well as black.

And whether it's a cardigan or a V-neck sweater it has to be teamed with vintage jeans, a white T-shirt and an expensive pair of brogues."

Wylam based knitwear design consultant Christine Loy sees the current trend-led demand for knitwear as a welcome return to more tactile fabrics generally, and hopefully it's an end to fleece dominated casual style on the high street.

"Polyester Fleece is a great invention, but it's just not a nice fibre," explains Christine. "Lambswool, and obviously cashmere, has a much nicer feel to it and represents quality.

It's more luxurious and more dressed up than fleece can ever be, and knitwear shapes also come in sportier `fleece' styles, with zips for those who find a move away from fleece a rather large step to take."

Once we've got used to cardigans, is there another trend coming from Japan to watch out for here? "Bum bags will be big," says Tom Kitwood.

Blimey, we'll certainly notice that one.